Talk about the city that doesn't sleep. Wander past the bars along Bourbon Street on your way to breakfast and you'll notice that the doors are flung wide open. More often than not, you'll see customers eager to belly up to the bar.
Yes, most of the bars in the fabled French Quarter never close, meaning the party runs very late (or starts very early, depending on your perspective). You're free to take your cocktail with you as you wander the streets, as long as it's in a plastic container.
In New Orleans, attitudes about sex are just as laid-back. Along Bourbon Street, the pedestrian-only thoroughfare running through the heart of the French Quarter, you'll see scantily clad employees literally pulling customers into the straight strip clubs.
Gays and straights share Bourbon Street, although gays gravitate toward the northern end, past St Peter Street. Another gay hangout, just outside the French Quarter, is the Marigny, a laid-back neighborhood with a bohemian vibe.
Most travelers fly into Louis Armstrong International Airport, 11 miles from the French Quarter. If your hotel doesn't offer a courtesy shuttle, there are plenty of taxis waiting.
Other ground transportation options include Jefferson Transit (E2) Express buses for $2, and Airport Shuttle service for $24. Look for info desks within the airport. Destinations include all key downtown zones, including the French Quarter. Service desks for nine car rental agencies are located on the lower level of the terminal building.
Some people come to the city by Amtrak train, which arrives in the Central Business District. From there it's a short taxi ride to the French Quarter.
What's the best way to see the city? Your own two feet, of course. Especially since this is a city made for walking. The French Quarter, just 14 blocks from end to end, is easily walkable. You can also stroll over to the Marigny without breaking a sweat. But if you want to venture a bit farther, we recommend public transit. The streetcars are both fun and useful.
Fares are $1.50 for streetcars and buses (fareboxes accept bills or coins), with another 50 cent charge for a transfer (pay the driver). See RTA for more information. A rental car is probably not worth the bother as navigating the streets and finding parking can be a hassle - and meter maids are extremely vigilant here!
Be sure to treat yourself to a free ride on the Canal Street ferry, which takes you across the Mississippi River from the foot of Canal. Great views of downtown.
French Quarter. Known simply as "The Quarter" to locals, the French Quarter is the heart and soul of New Orleans. If you're a first-time visitor, it's likely that you'll spend most of your time in the streets bordered by the Rampart, Esplanade, Canal and the Mississippi River. The architecture is a mix of Spanish, French and Creole styles. The ubiquitous cast-iron balconies were added to many buildings after 1850, when a baroness included them on her row house near Jackson Square. The French Quarter is where you'll find most of the city's gay businesses.
Marigny. Just northeast of the French Quarter, the Marigny is known for its quaint Creole cottages, most of which date to the 19th century. Although it has its share of bars, it lacks the spring-break atmosphere of Bourbon Street. There are plenty of gay businesses, especially along Frenchman Street and Elysian Fields.
Garden District. Although it isn't a gay neighborhood, the Garden District, south of the French Quarter, attracts lots of gay sightseers because of its graceful old mansions.
Riding in style through New Orleans
Tennessee Williams didn't get it exactly right: The streetcar's name wasn't Desire. That name actually belonged to one of the 16 streetcar lines that once traversed New Orleans. However, A Streetcar Line Named Desire doesn't make for such a good title.
The Desire Street Line, which ran through what was at the time a rather seedy neighborhood, has been long since replaced by a bus route. But the three lines that still run give a feel for what it would have been like to ride through the city at the beginning of the last century.
"Look at me, I'm Blanche DuBois!" shouted one gay man as he posed for a photo on the steps of a St Charles Street streetcar. The other passengers, who that day happened to be mostly gay men, laughed along.
The Riverfront Line is strictly for tourists. Not a historic route, it was inaugurated in 1988. The two-mile route runs along the Mississippi River, skirting the backs of French Quarter buildings most of the way. The streetcars themselves are fairly convincing replicas, with a few modern conveniences like wheelchair ramps.
Replicas also run on the Canal Street Line, one of the historic routes. It takes you along more than five miles of original tracks on Canal Street, on the southern edge of the French Quarter. Although the thoroughfare isn't much to look at, the streetcars whisk you past impressive sights. Many people take a ride to see the city's oldest cemeteries, lined with massive mausoleums because the high water table makes digging graves impossible.
For the quintessential streetcar experience, take the St Charles Line. The world's oldest continually operating streetcar line, it began service in 1835. The 13-mile route is gorgeous, taking you down tree-lined St. Charles Street past dozens of antebellum mansions. These streetcars are the real deal, most of them dating back to the 1920s. The mahogany seats and brass fittings make for an elegant ride. You'll probably run into other gay travelers if you board where St Charles Street meets Canal Street on the edge of the French Quarter.
Streetcar fare is $1.50, payable onboard, and there are $3 unlimited travel day passes too.
The new North Rampart and St Claude Avenue streetcar line, stretching from Canal Street to Elysian Fields, opened recently on the west side of the French Quarter, passing alongside Louis Armstrong Park and Congo Square.
Mardi Gras Krewes
Organizations known as Krewes make costumes, build the floats, and their membership fees pay for parade participation. Each of several gay Krewes holds an elaborate ball during the season. Though technically not open to the general public, these events may sometimes be accessible if you're in the know. Try wrangling an invitation though the LGBT Community Center.
Theater & museums
Le Petit Theatre du Vieux Carre has stage productions of interest, mostly comedie and musicals.
The New Orleans Voodoo Museum (724 Dumaine St) is dedicated to the history, religion and art of Voodoo.
Amidst the wanton pleasures of this city, don't let down your guard. A few basic, simple precautions go a long way to safeguard both valuables and personal safety as you let down your hair.
Media and resources
Local publications include Ambush, "the Gulf South's entertainment/news tabloid for adults." Their webpage has business listings, event info and a calendar. Also check out the websites GayNewOrleans and New Orleans Fruit Loop.
See Gay Mardi Gras for info on a most outrageous gay and lesbian New Orleans event, second only to the annual Southern Decadence each Labor Day weekend. Gay Halloween is another big day on the calender, in late October.
For locations and website links to businesses listed below, see our gay New Orleans map & listings pages.
Tourism is New Orleans's biggest industry, so innumerable hotels plus bed and breakfasts of all sorts thrive. Lodgings during Mardi Gras season or around Southern Decadence time are at a premium. Without advance reservations, finding a bed in town will be a tall order. Getting online isn't usually a problem, as many hotels have in-room wifi. If not, the centrally located Bourbon Pub provides this service for customers, 24 hours a day.
Balcony Guesthouse (2483 Royal St, Marigny), spacious rooms and Master Suite, pivate baths, balconies, breakfast included, lunch and dining options at their Silk Road Indian-American/ pan-Asian restaurant.
Blue60 Guest House (1008 Elysian Fields Ave), five comfortable suites/studios, sunny courtyards, quaint porches, private entrances, Jacuzzi, cable TV/DVD player, free WiFi.
Bon Maison Guest House (835 Bourbon St) in historic town house and slave quarters, centrally located digs with all creature comforts and a pleasant courtyard.
Burgundy B&B (2513 Burgundy St), Eastlake-style shotgun double, fireplaces, hardwood floors, 12-ft ceilings, 4 guest rooms, private baths, courtyard, spa, porches, dining room.
The Cornstalk Hotel (915 Royal St), 14-room French Quarter boutique hotel, antique period furnishings, lush gardens, porch overlooking Royal Street.
Empress Hotel (1317 Ursulines Ave), 36-room economy hotel two blocks from French Quarter, rooms from $36, cable TV, WiFi.
Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter (541 Bourbon St), comfortable rooms/suites at center, Cafe Opera restaurant, outdoor pool, 24-hour fitness center, business center, concierge services, cable TV, WiFi.
French Quarter Guest Houses (708 Ursulines St), four inns at heart of French Quarter, spacious suites/rooms, historic style and modern conveniences, courtyards, balconies.
French Quarter Suites (1119 North Rampart), a gay-owned and operated hotel, one-room to six-room suites, townhouses, kitchens, pool, balconies, and good value: "a suite for the price of a room."
Green House Inn (1212 Magazine St), 10-guestroom, 1840 townhouse in lower Garden District, close to convention center. Quieter gay retreat away from the all-night partying. Pool, garden, porch with rocking chairs,
Also in the Garden district, the Henry Howard House (2041 Prytania St) is gay operated and friendly, with 17 rooms, each with private bath. Private courtyards and balconies, free wi-fi, and complimentary breakfast are also features of this 1850's Mansion guesthouse.
Hotel St Pierre (911 Burgundy St), Creole cottages and charming townhouses, great location steps from Bourbon Street, good price, two pools, garden courtyards, gardens, cable TV, free WiFi.
Lions Inn (2517 Chartres St), is a charming 140-year-old Edwardian B&B for men, five blocks from the Quarter. Their sunroom, swimming pool, garden and Jacuzzi are great places to gather and socialize.
Maison Dupuy Hotel (1001 Toulouse St), central luxury hotel, private courtyard, heated pool, 24-hour fitness center, business center, Bistreaux Restaurant & Bar. Pets welcome.
Olde Town Inn (1001 Marigny St, Faubourg Marigny), deluxe rooms and multi-bed suites, secured parking, continental breakfast, cable TV; pet-friendly.
Intimate, stylish hotel Prince Conti Hotel (830 Conti St), just steps from Bourbon Street, has 24-hour concierge, bell service, and internet access. Also here: The Bombay Club Restaurant and Martini Bistro with award winning Nouveau Creole cuisine and over 100 different Martinis.
W New Orleans French Quarter (316 Chartres St), 97 rooms at Jackson Square near boutique shops, galleries, and the Riverwalk; fitness and business centers, outdoor courtyard and pool, Sobou Restaurant/ bar.
See our map & listings tab for locations, phones and weblinks to the above, plus more New Orleans hotel and guesthouse listings.
Bars & clubs, center
Gay life, though not confined to it, centers in the French Quarter or the Vieux Carre. Popular with tourists, this charming neighborhood is gayest off the beaten path of Bourbon St. Most establishments in the Quarter are within walking distance of each other so barhopping is a breeze. You can carry drinks into the street, but only in plastic cups, not in glass or cans. Most bars never close, and all are now 21-plus only. Until recently the city had two gay bathhouses, but now there are none.
The Faubourg Marigny is a neighboring district. Get there from the Quarter by going up Chartres, and get back on Royal.
700 Club (700 Burgundy), locals' favorite at corner of St Peter, casual video lounge, late kitchen with tacos to steak nights and Sunday brunch, excellent drinks and good conversation, noon to whenever. Owned by longtime local bartender, loyal regulars.
Allways Lounge (2240 St Claude Ave, Marigny) at Marigny Theatre, pure New Orleans, eclectic mix of live music the likes of Blackbird Raum, video curiosities; performances range from one (wo)man readings to belly dancing.
Big Daddy's (2513 Royal St), neighhood bar, jukebox, live entertainment/shows, WiFi, sports on TV, pool games.
Bourbon Pub & Parade (801 Bourbon St), Mardi Gras ground zero, 24/7 video bar, burlesque, cabaret, karaoke, comedy nights, variety shows and contests. Upstairs Parade disco, Boys on Parade, Sunday Tea Dances and drag shows.
Buffas (1001 Esplanade Ave/Burgundy St), 24-hour gay-friendly French Quarter restaurant and lounge, Movie & Game nights, live bands, Sunday Jazz Brunch.
Cafe Lafitte in Exile (901 Bourbon St), since 1952, never closes, balcony bar, 25-plus crowd, pool table, game machines, plasma-screen videos, Sunday Trash Disco, karaoke, daily happy hours. An eentertaining gay corner on Carnival days as guys display themselves for beads flung from the balconies.
Corner Pocket (940 St. Louis), barely dressed dancers atop the bar nightly after 9pm; Wet Jocky Shorts, New Meat amateur strip and Barry Bareass Dancer of the Week contests for cash prizes, plus Pot Luck Burlesque shows..
Country Club (634 Louisa), huge 1890 Italianate plantation house east of the Quarter, indoor/outdoor bars, year-round heated pool, sauna, hot tub, massage, spa services; movies and videos on 12 foot screen; sandwiches, pizza, full dinners, Sat/Sun brunch. Thursdays for women.
Cutter's (706 Franklin Ave), Faubourg Marigny neighborhood bar known for bears, big buffets, sports event specials, live talent shows, monthly art exhibits.
Double Play (439 Dauphine) "where locals drink," TV sports, pool table, video poker, drag cabaret shows, WiFi; bouyant mix of folks most every night.
The Friendly Bar (2301 Chartres), popular neighborhood bar in the Marigny, pool games, TV sports, theme specials, live entertainment and comedy nights.
Golden Lantern (1239 Royal), drinkers' bar where the Southern Decadence Parade begins each Sunday before Labor Day. Videos on flat screens, gambling machines for a touch of Vegas, well-loved bartenders, drag shows.
Good Friends (740 Dauphine), 24/7 gay vido bar, TV sports, karaoke, games, pool and shuffle board tables; upstairs Queens Head Pub with wrap-around balcony - famous for "Separator" milk-based frozen libations.
GrandPre's (834 N Rampart St), gay bar, mixed crowd, trivia games, TV games/shows, food; shows include Queerlesque drag burlesque shows, holiday parties. Was Michael's on the Park location.
Mags 940 (940 Elysian Fields Ave), Marigny neighborhood straight-friendly gay bar, creative cocktails, Mardi Gras Krewe royalty and guests from neighboring B&B, weekend shows.
Napoleon's Itch (734 Bourbon St), upscale Art Deco lounge; Bourbon Street Extravaganza entertainers, male dance show, live concert and street party during Southern Decadence.
Oz (800 Bourbon St), show bar and dance club, Mardi Gras Central where beads get tossed to the show-offs below the balcony. Fun all year with hot crowds, weekend male strippers, amateur strip-offs, burlesque, comedy cabaret and drag shows, karaoke, star DJs, guest performers.
Phoenix (941 Elysian Fields Ave, Marigny), short walk from the Quarter, leather /fetish bar on two levels, 24-hour/never closes. Renegade Bears' 3rd Friday monthly beer busts on the back patio. Upstairs Eagle is a touch-and-feel cruise bar and their COK store sells learher attire, kink, latex gear, underwear, lubes and more.
Rawhide 2010 (740 Burgundy), among top US leather bars, dark interiors smolder with earthy passions and intoxicating air. Pool games/tornaments, video poker, Saturday Night Leather, blackout parties; open 24-hours every day.
Voodoo Lounge (718 N Rampart St), 24-hour locals' neighborhood bar on Congo Square, French Quarter; friendly dark and cool, films nights.
In Slidell, Billy's Lounge (2600 Gause Blvd W), a Northshoregay bar, features drag shows, cook outs, theme and holiday parties.
CLOSED: GrrlSpot pop-up lesbian and queer bar, no events for over a year.
New Orleans is a grand gastronomic opera that will leave your taste buds singing a full-throated aria.
Bennachin Restaurant (1212 Royal), sample tastes that link West African with Creole traditions, breakfast, lunch and dinner. Black-eyed pea fritters, fish fried pies, yam fufu, plaintain delights, coconut rice, ginger chicken; as spicey (or not) as you like it, meat or no meat.
Cafe Amelie (912 Royal St), Louisiana fare served in a lush Princess of Monaco Courtyard French Quarter setting; breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch, beer, wine and cocktails.
Cafe du Monde (800 Decatur St), original coffee stand in French Market since 1862, distinctive local coffee laced with chicory to wash down beignets (French donuts). Open everyday but Christmas.
Clover Grill (900 Bourbon St), camp vibe, diner bar stools and tables, 24-hour breakfast, burgers, sandwiches, ice cream, shakes/malts, hot/cold beverages.
In Bywater district, Country Club (634 Louisa), mid-priced restaurant, crawfish dirty rice cakes, bacon-wrapped rabbit terrines, flatbread pizzas and other local treats. Part of a laid-back gay bar and pool complex.
Croissant d'Or (617 Ursulines), simple but elegant back street locale to meet a date or kick back with a newspaper, delicious fruit, almond, or chocolat croissants, beignets, quiches, and coffee Parisian style.
Elizabeth's (601 Gallier S), Pauline Street Wharf daily home-style breakfast from 7am, extravagant Saturday and Sunday brunches with cocktails, nightly dining, bar, international wine list.
Feelings Marigny Cafe & Courtyard Bar (535 Franklin Ave), Wednesday - Sunday romantic dining experience, courtyard patio, movie room, Elvis Bar, all-day Sunday brunch favorite entrées and appetizers, deserts and cocktails.
French Market (1008 N Peters St), six blocks of shops, restaurants and cafes; daily flea market and farmers' market with with eateries serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus fresh produce and seafood, baked goods and juices. Market Cafe open-air patio, breakfast jazz buffet, lunch/dinner and cocktails.
Green Goddess (307 Exchange Pl), unusual lunch and dinner combinations of New Orleans sensibilities with globetrotting ingredients, from small open kitchen.
Gumbo Shop (630 Saint Peter St), Creole seafood, chicken and sausage gumbo and jambalaya specialties, blackened chicken, filet mignon, seasoned beans and rice veggie option.
The Louisiana Pizza Kitchen (615 S Carrollton Ave, Uptown + 95 French Market Pl, French Quarter), Italian favorites, pizza, pasta, calzones, appetizers and wraps; also bottled beers of many nations and micro-breweries, flavored teas, various cream sodas.
Mona Lisa Cafe (1212 Royal), big portions of homemade pizza, pasta, sandwiches, salads; decent wine list, beer and byob.
Moon Wok (800 Dauphine), Chinese and Vietnamese takeout or dine-in, good prices, "big assed" drinks.
Mr B's Bistro (201 Royal St), daily lunch, dinner, Sunday Jazz Brunch; New Orleans landmark with Creole cuisine, fresh regional produce,
Praline Connection (542 Frenchman), "no-nonsense cajun-creole soul cuisine" at affordable prices, spiffy waiters in bowler hats. New Orleans pralines made fresh daily, old fashioned style, spoon dipped by hand.
Quarter Master (1100 Bourbon St), more than just a neigborhood convenience store, the "Nelly Deli" has daily lunch and dinner specials, Southern foods, burgers and po-boys; 24-hour free delivery of groceries, liquor, tobacco, and hot food.
See our map and listings tab for locations and links for the above bars and restaurants, and more options.
Faubourg Marigny Art & Books (600 Frenchman St), fine art and booksellers, daily noon to 10pm; regular book readings and signings. Emerging artists often showcase their work at the store.
Hit Parade (741 Bourbon St) has YMLA and other club-wear brands, plus gay pride items, CDs, cards and magazines.