Perhaps the world’s most beautiful city, Venice has for hundreds of years been a destination for travelers on their “grand tour.” It doesn’t get grander than this city of canals. Gondolas float past palazzos that seem to rise directly out of the water. Landmarks like the Basilica di San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale mix Byzantine, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture in such a way that it seems like something altogether different.
The city extends between the mouths of the Piave and Po Rivers, across 117 small islands in the saltwater marshes of the Venetian Lagoon, on the Adriatic Sea in northeast Italy. A wealthy city throughout much of its history, it began as a refuge for those from Roman cities, fleeing invasions as the empire collapsed. First as a Byzantine territory, then as the Republic of Venice, it became a major maritime power, especially during the Middle Ages and Renaissance eras, trading in salt, silk, grain, spice, and art. Already by the late thirteenth century, it had become the most prosperous city in Europe. At it's peak Venice had 36,000 sailors on 3,300 ships, dominating the commerce of the Mediterranean. By the 15th century it was the printing capital of the world, credited with the innovation of paperback books, (easily carried on a journey). Notable for freedom from religious fanaticism, Venice saw no executions for religious heresy during the Counter-Reformation.
The city was marginalized after the 17th century. Long wars with the new sultan in Constantinople had drained the coffers and lost them territories. The Portuguese discovery of the passage to India, Columbus' voyage to the Americas, and the inability of Venetian ships to compete with those of Iberia and the emerging sea powers of Northwest Europe also took their toll. At the same time a series of plagues killed more than a third of the population. Even so, during the 18th century this was considered the most elegant and refined city in Europe, with great influence in art, architecture and literature.The Republic ended with the conquest by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1797 and the city came under Austrian control, the focus of years of bitter and bloody struggles, until the area became a part of the Kingdom of Italy.
The Carnival of Venice annual festival begins about two weeks before Ash Wednesday, and ends on Fat Tuesday (Martedì Grasso). The famously elaborate masks (Bauta), a central feature of the festival, were adopted to hide identities and permit social mixing between the classes during special occasions. It was also important at times of political decision-making, when all citizens were required to act anonymously during free and secret ballots. Originally, only citizens had the right to use the Bauta and weapons were not permitted to be carried by those wearing the mask.
To taste the real Venice check out a bacaro, one of many small and inexpensive wine bars for crostini ham and cheese toast snacks, or a hearty meal. Traditional local dishes include "fegato alla Veneziana" made with calf's liver, pancetta bacon and onions. Dining out being more expensive in Venice than many other cities, it pays to do a little research. For a guide to some of the many restaurant options in town, see Frommer's top 21, the Michelin Guide pick of 60, or GoVenice with 36 more.
Venice's Aeroporto Marco Polo is about 6 miles north of the city on the mainland. It's served by domestic and international flights from all over the world. There are buses to Venice, but the most scenic way to arrive at Plaza San Marco (also Rialto, Fondamenta Nuove and Le Guglie; or Murano, Burano, Lido islands) is by water bus. Buy tickets at the Public Transport office in Airport Arrivals, ticket machines at baggage claim, at the dock, or on board. Departures are every 15 minutes; fares to Piazzale Roma are 8 €, or 15 € round trip (including baggage). From the landing stations take the public transit waterbus for all local destinations - see the Actv map. For timetables and ticket info see Alilaguna; and for other options, the Vennezia Unica motorboat transport site - both in English.
There are no cars anywhere in Venice - part of the reason it is so magical. Gondolas are mostly for tourists, but can be a quick way to get across the Grand Canal. Vaporettos, or water buses, are better for longer distances.
Getting lost in Venice is considered to be part of the experience of the city; the maze-like streets can be very confusing and maps are of little use. An easy way around this is to orient yourself to St Mark's Square, then look for the many signs "Per S Marco" when returning. Photogenic canals, hidden restaurants and glass blowing workshops are best stumbled apon, so relax and go missing for awhile. Cell phones are cheap for checking-in with friends, and water taxis can be used to find the way back as one emerges from who-knows-where amidst the web of alleyways.
Currency and Money
Italy is part of the Euro Zone, so the euro is the accepted currency. There are ATMs in the city.
The gay scene here is far more subdued than in most Italian cities. There’s just a handful of bars and clubs that are gay or gay-friendly, as well as some B&Bs and other lodgings. In Mestre, on the terra firma side of the lagoon there are a few places to check out:
Juice Berry Sex Bar (via Torino 162), men's cruise bar with naked and underwear nights, hard-core sex shows; nightly from 6pm, Sundays from 2:30pm.
Metro Club Sauna (via Cappuccina 82/b), men's fetish cruise club with playroom, maze, "fisters' lair," g-holes, orgy room, erotic massage services, and porn video lounge.
Molo 5 (via dell'elettricità 8, Marghera), a large mainstream restaurant and dance club complex with a variety of events. Former site for Trash & Chic gay parties, but they moved to Flexo, in Padua
PDM / Porto de Mar (via delle Macchine 41, Marghera), ARCIGAY gay bar with Wednesday male strippers, Friday/Saturday dance parties, Sunday karaoke.
Nearby Padua has some additional options:
Club Flexo (via Turazza 19), Saturday and Sunday gay dance club, go-go dancers, drag shows, karaoke, BearDoc bears' events and leather/fetish nights. Special nights include Trash & Chic, once a month TOUCH Café/ Manzone Saturday men's parties with dancers, drag shows, foam parties, and theme events.
Hot Dog (via Turazza 19), men's sex club and bar with naked, underwear and orgy events, cabins, cruise maze, free WiFi; nightly from 9pm, Sundays/holidays from 2pm.
Metro Padova Sauna (via D. Turazza 19/1), two whirlpools, summer garden, Finnish sauna, Turkish bath, relax rooms, internal video, glory holes, maze, bar/ café hot sandwiches, smoking area, TV room, free WiFi.
Touch Cafe (via Turazza 19), Flexo gay cafe with Sunday night karaoke, cabaret shows, drag divas, no cover charge.
Officina Cruising ( via Alessandro Volta 1, Limena), men's Friday and Saturday disco cruise night, DJs, naked/fetish theme nights, live shows, Saturday afterhours until 8am.
Further west, in Verona
BluRoom (via Don Giuseppe Baldo, 37128; 39-346-840-9370), picturesque B&B, three guestrooms, private baths, garden terrace. The former Casa Baldo.
Nuova Opera Rooms (Piazzale Aristide Stefani, 8; 39-333-658-7337), elegant suites with satellite TV, 5th floor and panoramic roof terraces; satellite TV, en-suite bathrooms. Formerly B&B Atticus.
Sauna Liquid Club (via Nicolò Giolfino, 12), gay sauna, steam, hydromassage, cruise zone, bar, naked parties, BBQs; open daily noon-midnight, Friday/Saturday until 2am.
Skylight (Viale delle Fontanelle 28, San Bonifacio), every Saturday gay/mixed discoteque with Stupendi Boys, traditional and genderfuck drag, DJs.