Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Vallarta was founded the same year as Seattle, in 1851. The small fishing village soon became a local vacation destination, but access was limited to sea routes and mule trails, until airplanes first arrived in 1932. A road connection was built in 1942, the same year that vacation ads of the Air Transport Company of Jalisco began to appear in a New York magazine. By 1945 their DC-3s were bringing 21 passengers per flight for fun in the sun. But it was the 1963 John Huston film, The Night of the Iguana, with Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, and their media-grabbing love affair and marriage, that really put Puerto Vallarta on the US tourist map.

The city's gay evolution began just two decades ago. That's when Paco Ruiz opened his namesake gay nightclub, Club Paco Paco in this seaside getaway on the west coast of Mexico. At the time, there was only one other gay bar in town. Despite being arrested three times, Ruiz refused to be intimidated by the police harassment. Eventually the media attention and public sympathy that followed created a friendlier environment for his and other gay businesses.

Now Mexico's most popular gay destination, bar none, this is a magnet for gay tourists from all over North America, a short flight away. Today there are around thirty gay bars and nightclubs at any given time, many gay-friendly cafes and restaurants, and over a dozen gay hotels and bed-and-breakfasts. There are also lively and eclectic local arts, crafts and live music scenes, along with chefs who trained in some of the world's finest restaurants at work here.

The pre-Lent Mardi Gras celebrations of Puerto Vallarta Carnaval take place along the Malecón at city center, to the end of Olas Altas in the Zona Romantica. Vallarta Pride is set for May 17-29, 2016, now a 12-day event, with a parade, films, beach parties, park festival, and dance parties.



Zona Romantica. Almost all the gay businesses are located in the south end of the city in the historic district of Emiliano Zapata. Everything is easily walkable in this quaint, cobblestoned part of town. The gay section of the beach at Playa de los Muertos is here too, long associated with Blue Chairs hotel/restaurant and nightclub.
El Centro. This is the city's downtown, located just north of the Zona Romantica on the other side of the Cuale River. Although some refer to the Zona Romantica as the "Old Town," El Centro is older. This side of the river now has only two gay bars and just one gay men-only B&B, but a number of good restaurants, the Our Lady of Guadalupe parish church, and the Malecon boardwalk remain of interest.
The Hotel Zone. This is the area north of downtown where you'll find most of the modern high-rise hotels. Unless you are desperate to redeem points at a chain hotel, you'll be better off staying in Zona Romantica or El Centro.


Getting here

The Puerto Vallarta Gustavo Diaz Ordaz Airport is just north of the hotel zone. A cab from the airport to the Zona Romantica can be found either among the official government taxis (tickets at the booth just past the timeshare hucksters), or by walking across the pedestrian bridge to take one of the city cabs lined up on the other side of the road for a bit less. Puerto Vallarta Tours and Vallarta Transfers offer stress-free and inexpensive pre-reserved tranfers into town, in air-conditioned comfort.

Diana's Tours offers pickup services for their cruise clients. For just US$24 a driver will whisk 1 or 2 travelers to their hotel. For larger groups in a van, that's US$10 per person. A company rep will be waiting by luggage claim, and again after you pass customs, to escort you.

Car rentals can be found in the arrivals terminal, but also in town without difficulty, for when you need one to get around beyond the city limits. Having a car can otherwise be more hassle than it's worth. For those traveling light and cheap, the city bus stop is just outside the airport gates.

Puerto Vallarta is in the same state of Jalisco as Guadalajara, just over five hours away by car or coach. ETN (website in English), one of several companies offering modern inter-city coach service, some with WiFi access, with eleven daily round-trips between the two cities.


Getting around

Unless you plan to do a lot of driving outside of the city, don't rent a car. Taxis are plentiful and cheap, although you should agree on a fare before you get inside. Pay in Mexican pesos for a better rate. Although it's not customary to tip taxi drivers, locals will often round up the fare. Most North Americans do tip, one reason why drivers seem so eager to pick them up.

Buses run north and south for those who want to explore further out, and renting a Jeep or Volkswagen convertible is easy and affordable. Most hotels have excellent concierge service and can point you in the right direction. Looking for a day on a secluded beach? There are many local fishing boats you can charter to take you across the bay. Ask your concierge to recommend one.

Some parts of town have steep steps-only streets, inaccessible by taxi except from the top or bottom ends of the road. Those with potential problems should plan ahead and consult their hotels about getting around when venturing beyond the flat beach front areas - help can always be at hand. As in many Hispanic and European countries, address numbers usually follow the street names, but some businesses use the English/French convention of putting numbers before street names on their websites.


What to see & do

Hit the Beach: It's always warm enough to swim in Puerto Vallarta, so, not surprisingly, the beach is the city's most popular attraction. Puerto Vallarta's unofficial gay beach is the Blue Chairs Beach. It's on the southern end of Los Muertos beach, directly in front of the Blue Chairs Resort by the Sea. A second, smaller gay beach resort was established a few years ago, a short walk to the north, and the sands in front of other more traditional beachside restaurants have become more gay-friendly in recent years. Staff will soon welcome you like old friend to a shaded chair overlooking the shimmering water, with disarming smiles and a bucket of ice chilled beers - or whatever you fancy.

Walk the Malecon: the boardwalk on Banderas Bay runs from the north end of Zona Romantica, over the Cuale River and into downtown Puerto Vallarta. Interesting sculptures (including sand sculptures) dot the Malecon once you reach downtown. The famous dolphin and the arches that are symbolic of Puerto Vallarta are across from the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, the city's best-known landmark. Several important religious festivals take place along these streets each year.
Stroll up the hill behind the church to find the famous pink Puente del Amor, the "love bridge" connecting mansions once occupied by Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, at Calle Zaragoza 445.

Take a day cruise: Diana's Tours runs daylong catamaran excursions, departing every Thursday morning in season, from Los Muertos Pier, with snorkeling and beach stops along the way. Oscar Frey operates Ocean Friendly Tours, one of the most respected whale watching expeditions in Puerto Vallarta, December 1st through March 23rd each year. Wet & Wild 6-hour cruises leave noon Saturdays in season from Los Muertos Pier, with on-board bar, snorkeling In Los Arcos Nature Reserve, lunch at a Las Animas beach restaurant, a clothing-optional stop at Los Caballitos Beach, and a "Gays Gone Wild" wrap-up show.

Experience local scenery: Estigo Scooters offers off-road ATV tour adventures into the Sierra Madre Jungle, waterfalls, swimming holes and a beachside fishing village stop. Estigo also arranges zip-line canopy tours by Canopy Indio at Paradise Adventure Park. From a ranch north of Vallarta take leisurely rides with Boana Horseback into the hillside forest for a dip in the river, then a restaurant meal and drinks with a gay friendly guide. PV Sea Dive offers SCUBA diving tours and courses, snorkeling tours, whale watching and beach tours.

Shop on water: The island in the middle of the Cuale River includes a long stretch of shops where you can buy souvenirs and more artsy-fartsy stuff from local artisans.

Eat outside: It's almost never cold, so dine at one of the many sidewalk, beachfront and rooftop restaurants, and don't be afraid to eat like the locals at sidewalk taco stands. Check out our 50+ restaurant listings, plus those to be found among the hotels and resorts.

See a show: Act II Stages (Insurgentes 300) presents Main Stage musicals, plays, concert series, and Red Room cabaret and drag shows. The Encore Bar is also here.

Hit the clubs and dance the night away: Nightlife starts late here. Don't expect to see anyone in the big gay dance clubs before midnight, but there are plenty of options along the beach and in back streets of the Zona Romantica all day long. Will Gorges presents big November Latin Fever, and New Year's Eve dance party events each year. We list over 85 bars and cantinas, nightclubs, cafes, restaurants, cocktail lounges, male strip clubs and dance clubs at our map & listings pages, with the pick of these below.

Mix it up: Mexicans love Americans and Canadians, and vice versa, and most gay people in Puerto Vallarta speak enough English to get by. Don't worry if you only speak the international language of love, we list some places to get together below, under 'Bathhouses & spas.'


Organize your day

Area gay nightlife offers a wide variety of restaurants, clubs, bars, and martini lounges, most in the Zona Romantica. The scene starts relatively late, then continues at some locations until 8am. To follow local custom, take an afternoon siesta before heading out for a busy night of dinner, drinks, shows and dancing. Among the many shows are comedy routines, and drag and stripper shows. The Olvas Altas sidewalk cafes and bars, close by the beach, provide a particularly pleasant place to stroll in late afternoons and early evenings. Later, the scene moves to the late-night spots further in. Take care when leaving the clubs late -- travel in groups or have the club call a cab.


Media and Resources

Be sure to pick up Gay Guide Vallarta when you get into town. It's easy to follow, written mostly in English and includes a handy gay map.

GayPV gay magazine and directory, in partnership with the PV Convention & Visitors Bureau, has a print guide and website promoting gay Vallarta, in both English and Spanish.

Discovery Vallarta is another good source for up to date local gay information, from people who really know and love this town, and without a lot of hype. In particular they list over 50 art galleries and museums in town.

Urbana Revista, a gay glossy monthly Mexican magazine, with a focus on Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta, also has a website.

First time here? The bi-lingual tour guides of Gay Vallarta Bar Hopping will make you feel at home, touring the night life scene and getting you into the clubs without waiting in line.

Vallarta Eats offers tours to get you past the tourist traps, to sample authentic Mexican food with English-speaking guides. Vallarta Food Tours offers another, similar culinary adventure. The Fodor's Travel website lists good restaurants throughout Vallarta's neighborhoods, with diverse cuisines, at various prices.

Beck's Best, Puerto Vallarta's Restaurant Guide written by gay guy Gary Beck, may be bought online.

VallartOsos is the local bear group with events around town, welcoming locals and visitors all. Beef Dip is the big annual international weekend get-together for bears each January.

For more mainstream general news, listings and directions in PV see the websites  BanderasNews, VallartaOnline, VisitPuertoVallarta, or PuertoVallarta.net

For locations and website links to businesses listed below, see our Puerto Vallarta gay map & listings pages. For other Mexican cities see Cancun, Guadalajara, Mexico City, and Tijuana.

Speaking in tongues

Most locals speak some English, so getting along without Spanish is possible. But it's always appreciated when the effort is made to speak the local language and a few phrases can go a long way.



The legendary Blue Chairs Resort by the Sea (Malecon 4, Playa Los Muertos; US/Canada 888-302-3662), one of the world's best known gay hotel resorts with 45 rooms, a popular beachside restaurant on the gay beach, and rooftop pool patio/bar nightly shows with Dirty Bitches drag and go-go boys. Staff here can book local tours and day trips.

Boana-Torre Malibu Hotel (Amapas 325, 52-322-222- 0999), gay resort hotel, short walk from beach; bedrooms, two baths, kitchen & salon, water-facing balconies, romantic pool. Tours can be booked here. Budget rooms at Boana 2 and at Casa Benito B&B where rates include access to pool and other main hotel facilities.

Casa 567 (Venustiano Carranza 567; 52-322-123-8707), quiet east end of street, restored townhouse, four 1-bedroom suites, one 2-bedroom suite, rooftop pool, patio mountain vistas, just 8 blocks from the beach.

Casa Cupula (Callejon de la Igualdad 129; 52-322-223-2484), gay boutique resort hotel, close to beach, restaurants, cafes, luxurious, stylish and intimate, with gourmet food, tempting cocktails, two pools, spa and gym.

Casa Enigma (Paseo de las Madre Perlas 154, Conchas Chinas; 52 322 221-5168), high-end gay guesthouse, two villa B&B with heated infinity pool, hot jacuzzi and steam spa. Fills up fast.

Casa Fantasia (Pino Suarez 203), three old-style haciendas, patio and pool, furnished with antiques and artwork; gay owned, straight-friendly, but no unregistered guests allowed. Full breakfast daily, hors d'oeurves and champagne some evenings.

Gay-owned and staffed, Hotel Mercurio (Francisca Rodriguez 168; 52-322-222-4793), 28 rooms, some with kichenette, good location, outstanding service and value, gourmet breakfast, romantic indoor pool with popular happy hour for drinks attracting guests, visitors and locals, mid-afternoons until after 10pm daily.

Hotel Torre de Oro (Pulpito 138; 52-322-222-4488), former Abbey Hotel, 13 one-bedroom suites/ kitchenetts, 42 up-to-4-person rooms, gay district, near beach, available year around; restaurant, pool, Jacuzzi, cable TV.

La Terraza Inn (Amapas 299; 52-322-223-5431), gay owned apartments and guesthouse, 10 cabana-style rooms, many with private patios, some with partial ocean view, all with free WiFi; near gay beach, restaurants and gay nightlife.

San Franciscan Resort & Gym (Pilitas 213; 52-322-222-6473), boutique luxury residence hotel, affordable prices, very private, convenient to beach and businesses; studios, 1-4 bedroom apartments, kitchens, free-weights gym, pool, WiFi, comedy club shows in season.

Vallarta Cora (Pilitas 174; 52-322-222-6234), gay men-only hotel where the socializing is easy at their busy bar, or at the Jacuzzi. This attitude-free haven has a backroom, bar, clothing-optional area and a private sun terrace.

Vallarta Shores (Malecon 400; US/Canada 800-228-4552), general-public boutique hotel in heart of Zona Romantica gay area, directly overlooking the beach. Three-levels, 10 suites, 1 to 3 bedrooms, all with balconies and ocean views, living areas, and bedrooms.

Villa David (Galeana 348; 52-322-223-0315), gay men-only B&B guesthouse, downtown area, old-world hacienda style, nine rooms, some with balconies; common area living room and kitchen, courtyard patio garden, clothing-optional heated pool, rooftop sun deck, Jacuzzi with a view.

Villa Mercedes Petit Hotel (Amapas 175; 52-322-223-4543), gay-owned, pet friendly, hip and stylish boutique hotel; studios, suites, penthouses, pool, roofdeck, restaurant-bar.


At the Beach/ Playa los Muertos

Blue Chairs Beach Club Restaurant & Bar (Malecon 4), famous gay beachfront bar and restaurant in front of the gay resort hotel and nightclub, iconic blue chairs on the sand shaded by thatched palapas, breakfast, lunch and dinner; the gay place to be on the beach. Their hotel rooftop Blue Sunset bar is open to the public, with every-evening drag shows and go-go dancers.

La Palapa (Pulpito 105), beachfront breakfast/lunch/dinner and snacks, seafood, steak and ribs, bar, shaded beach chairs; parasails, jet skis, ocean swimming.

Mahi Beach Club (Púlpito 105), beachfront clubhouse, shaded tables on the sand, seafood and Mexican restaurant, cocktail bar; old El Dorado site.

Mantamar Beach Club/ Bar & Grill (Malecón 169), gay-friendly beach club with salt water and infinity pools, Jacuzzi and lounge, DJs and WiFi; gourmet lunch and dinner with star chef.

Ritmos Beach Cafe (Malecon 177), "Green Chairs" next to Blue Chairs on the gay stretch of Playa Los Muertos; palapas-shaded seating on the sand, full bar, sandwiches, hot dogs and Mexican snacks, live music.

Sapphire Ocean Club (Malecón 1), beach club bistrot/bar with swimming pool, lounge chairs and cabañas, breakfast and lunch;  gourmet Mediterranean grilled meats and fish specialties, Swiss and Mexican accents.


Restaurants and Cafes
This town has plenty of places to eat, with a variety of cuisines to reflect the cosmopolitan nature of the people who live and visit here. Several places are run by classically trained chefs from the finest kitchens of Europe and North America, alongside talented and imaginative local and regional maestros of the culinary arts. All listed below are in Emiliano Zapata/Zona Romantica, unless otherwise noted. See locations, website links, and more restaurants at our maps & listings page. Many places close during the summer low season, to open again in early October.

Anejo Limon (Basilio Badilo 229), imported then in-house-aged beef, affordable wines and cocktails, outdoor garden, and patio bar. Located at Cucco's Market Bistro Cafe, serving burgers, deli sandwiches, pizza, and grilled meats.

Archie's Wok  (Francisca Rodriguez 130) blends Thai, Chinese and Filipino cuisines, with subtle sauces and reasonable prices; eat in or take-out.

Barcelona Tapas (Matamoros at 31 de Octubre, Downtown), Spanish-style tasting menu and small plates, great vistas of surrounding streets around and below.

Bistro Balsamar (Ignacio L Vallarta 372), regional Mexican cuisine in Zona Romantica, dinner served nightly, full bar, wine selections, star chef Alejandro Cordero Garcia.

Bravos (Madero 263), casual fine dining, international food and drinks, seafood, steaks, chops, pasta; extensive wine list, eclectic martinis.

Cafe Bohemio (Rodolfo Gomez 127), patio bar and bistro, romantic outdoor dining, friendly host Sol and staff keep it casual. Mexican and International menu, nightly two-for-one happy hours drinks; fish, chicken, steaks, ribs, meatloaf and liver 'n onions, plus veggie meal options too.

Cafe des Artistes (Guadalupe Sanchez 740), Mexican and French bistro menu, formal and elegant setting, art works and lush gardens, piano music, over 350 fine wines, gourmet aperitifs; celebrity chef Thierry Blouet.

Cafe Oro Verde (Colombia 1373), often rated the best coffee in town, casual Bohemian vibe, deli sandwiches.

Casa Naranjo (Naranjo 263) small hidden-away restaurant, kitchen at center stage, classic Mexican and European cuisines, international crowd.

Chez Elena at Hotel Los Cuatro Vientos (Guadalupe Sanchez 740, Centro), on hill above Malacon in old colonial building, part of the old Vallarta of Liz Taylor and Richard Burton days; small restaurant, big reputation and fine cuisine.

Coco's Kitchen (Pulpito 122), good daily breakfast, lunch; European and Mexican foods, shady garden seating.

Coffee Cup (Rodolfo Gomez 146), for first or last coffee of the day (try their soy chi latte), breakfast. Easy-to-make-friends, locals and travelers, internet access.

Daiquiri Dick’s (Olas Altas 314), beachfront restaurant, Asian influenced Mediterranean & Mexican cuisine, nice view, good food and service, popular Sunday brunch; deli take-out food and drinks for picnic lunch.

El Arrayán (Allende 344), regional Mexican specialties; black bean empanadas, shredded duck tostadas, seafood, local style no-egg quiche, pork, chicken mole, veggie options. Many-time local readers' choice winner.

El Rio BBQ (Felipe Angeles 245, Paso Ancho), Portland OR natives combine their own barbecue skills with local technique, Mexican-style hardwood fires and distinctive spices to achieve that special flavor; outdoors in upriver Rio Cuale area.

Hacienda Alemana (Basilio Badilio 378), resort hotel and restaurant, German and Bavarian fine dining, garden seatings, large Oktoberfest-style buffets, German beers.

Los Mercados (Aquiles Serdan 265), under-one-roof variety, beach picnics or back-at-hotel intimate-time provisions: Mikey's fine foods & delicatessen, K'rico pastries coffees & cakes, Don Fresco fresh fruit and produce, and Cork & Bottle with fine wines & spirits.

Mama Rosa (Leona Vicario 297, Centro), large Mexican breakfast buffets, traditional Mexican recipes; also lunch, dinner, terrace seating, views from hillside perch. Also at Basilio Badillo 223, Zona Romantica.

No Way José! (5 de Febrero 260) unique and diverse Mexican fare, seafood to vegetarian, music events, friendly staff, "warmth of a happy home."

Oscar's (Isla Rio Cuale 1), fine international cuisine, sophisticated ambience; November Latin Fever and New Year's Eve gay parties by Will Gorges.

Page in the Sun Cafe (Lázaro Cárdenas 179), cafe and coffee shop, sandwiches, pastries, bagels, baguettes, pies; English-language used books, sidewalk tables.

Pie in the Sky (Aquiles Serdán 242), cool, air-conditioned café, pastries, cakes and chocolates, coffee specialties, ice cream, brownies with molten center specialities, sugar-free options, WiFi access.

Planeta Vegetariano (Iturbide 270), central, inexpensive all-you-can-eat vegetarian lunch buffet, also breakfast and dinner.

Red Cabbage (Rivera del Rio, Remance), small, colorful, out-of-the-way café serves food of many regions of Mexico; arts, music scene, mural inspired by wedding feast of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.

River Cafe (Isla Río Cuale 4) exotic tropical terrace by the Rio Cuale, soft music, bird song, insect buzz, sounds of babbling brook compliment International cuisine, fine dining experience.

Seasons PV (Ignacio L Vallarta 130), Canadian-American/ Mexican restaurant and bar, big breakfast bennies, eggs and homefries, pancakes, sandwiches and wraps, salads, entrées; Canadian and Mexican night specials.

Si, Señor (Guadalupe Sánchez 274, Centro), home-made tortillas, the genuine article Mexican dining, choice of garden outdoor or cool AC indoor seating.

The Swedes Bar & Bistro (Pulpito 154), breakfast, lunch, dinner bistro menu, cuisines of Scandinavia, Europe and Norh America; upstairs Crows Nest Bar.

Taste (Callejon de la Igualdad 129), Casa Cupula luxury gay resort restaurant, open to all; gourmet fine dining, light lunch, robust Sunday brunch. Chef Jose Luis Ponce.

Teatro Limon (Basilio Badillo 219), celebrity Chef Bruce works in open kitchen, small dinner party-style, preparing unique multi-course meals for guests.

Trattoria Michel (Olas Altas 507), owner/chef Michel Ferrari uses only freshest fish, game and meat in traditional Italian cuisine; fine wines, beautiful sunsets.

Trio (Guerrero 264), downtown Mediterranean gourmet dining, highly-trained European chefs use fresh local ingredients and fine herbs; cosmopolitan, casual elegance, open courtyard with fountain.


Going out/ Bars & Clubs
After the beach becomes dark and the restaurants wrap up the night, the clubs begin to get busy. Influenced by habits of visitors, this town runs on both Mexican/Mediterranean and North American/European schedules, so there's always somewhere to go to be sociable. As in most gay scenes, there are early warm-up pubs, cantinas, and lounges, many of which serve food, and late-night clubs to dance or to admire the naked male strippers.

Anonimo (Rodolfo Gomez 157), small bar off Olas Altas, good drinks prices, easy conversations.

Antropology (Morelos 101, Plaza Rio, Zona Centro), north across the bridge, men-only "gentlemen's club," the study of man, non-stop nude male dancers, 9pm to 4am, good-looking staff.

Apaches (Olas Altas 439) restaurant and bar, gay, straight, lesbian, and artist types congregate at sidewalk tables chatting.

Blondies Loft (Púlpito 115), slushbar with fresh fruit drinks, classic cocktails, charcuterie snacks and bruschettas.

Blue Sunset Rooftop (Malecon 4, Playa Los Muertos), on Blue Chairs Resort roof. Popular nightly events include Sunday and Wednesday "Dirty Bitches, and Thursday & Saturday male strippers.

CC Slaughters (Lazaro Cardenas 254), new remodeled nightclub and cocktail lounge from the guys of Portland OR, dancing, drag shows, old Mariachi Loco site.

Diva's (Francisco Madero 388), intimate cantina neighborhood bar, popular with local gay expats and Mexicans, especially for happy hours.

Fiesta Bar & Lounge (267 Lazaro Cardenas), gay party bar, comedy and drag shows, live music, go-go boys, back yard patio, mixed/mostly male crowd, back yard smoking patio.

Frida (Insurgentes 301) cozy "only authentic alternative cantina," inexpensive drinks, English and Mexican music video jukebox, Wednesday bear nights, Thursdays bingo; meals include weekend steak nights.

Garbo (Pulpito 142), gay piano bar, live jazz, regulars meet for cocktails before the clubs.

La Noche (Lozaro Cardenas 257-263), quiet conversational lounge club subdued atmosphere lighting/music, nightly go-go boys, usually packed to overflowing, early/ upscale crowd, locals and tourists spill into the street. 

Los Amigos (Venustiano Carranza 239), 6pm-4am gay cantina, terrace, bears, cowboys, cheap drinks, Vaquero Sexy contests.

Luna Azul (Lazaro Cardenas 308), gay/mixed bar/lounge, live music, karaoke, drag shows. Formerly Encuentros, next to Wet Dreams.

Open Vallarta (Venustiano Carranza 212), Wednesday through Sunday pop music gay dance club, special events, guest DJs. Open Fri/Sat until 6am. Formerly Enter Club.

Paco's Ranch (Ignacio L Vallarta 237), new evolution of Paco Paco, one of Puerto Vallarta's first gay clubs, new location between Roxy's and Liquid, dancing and drag shows, open nightly until 6am.

Palm Cabaret & Bar (Olas Altas 508), gay bar, international talent caberet, burlesque and comedy shows, street patio seating on popular strip.

Reinas (Lazaro Cardenas 361), gay party bar, cheap drinks, juke box music, videos, films, conversation; Dutch hospitality, friendly staff.

Sama (Olas Altas 510), chic, elegant martini and video lounge, white leather seating, sidewalk patio. Famous for appletini and chocolate martinis by owner Jose.

Wet Dreams (Lazaro Cardenas 312), men-only stripper club, guys in the showers or doing pole in the backroom, small VIP lounge for intimacy, open 'til 4am.

CLOSED: Club Mañana (Venustiano Carranza 290), gay dance complex, strippers, pool. Uncommon Grounds (Lazaro Cardenas 625), bar/lounge, restaurant/coffeehouse, art/performance space.


Bathhouses & spas

Acqua Gym & Spa (Constitución 450; 322 223-5270), work out gym facility near main gay business district, certified trainers, steam room, therapeutic massage services and body treatments.

Blue Massage Spa (Olas Altas 411; 322 222-6034), the place for "total relaxation" on site in Zona Romantica, at home or hotel services (check ahead on their guest policy).

Metamorfosis Spa (Francisca Rodriguez 159; 322 222-6162), Swedish, deep tissue, hot stone therapy, reflexology, integrated therapies, facials, and manicures/pedicures for men and women.

Pump Gym (Callejon de la Igualdad 129; 322 223-2484 x121), at Casa Cupula gay resort but open to non-guests, for cardio, weight machines and free-weight workouts; with Jacuzzi, pool, tanning deck and Taste restaurant.

Spartacus Spa (Lázaro Cárdenas 240), 18+ gay sauna on four floors, at center of Zona Romantica scene; dry and steam heat, Jacuzzi, video lounge, pool, nude sunbathing, massage, smokers' area, bar, free WiFi. Open daily noon-midnight, Saturdays noon through Sunday midnight, non-stop.

Vallarta Cora (Pilitas 174), hotel club, heated pool, bar, patio, gay porn videos, men-only clothing-optional pool, Jacuzzi and steam room, popular with younger gay Mexicans.

Two local gay restorts offer massage services for both guests and non-guests: Blue Chairs spa at Playa Los Muertos (322 222-5040 x230); and Boana Torre spa (Amapas 325; 322 222-0999).

Shopping & services

Cassandra Shaw Jewelry (Basilio Badillio 276), elegant store, original and unique handcrafted designs in the art of bijoux for both men and women.

Tropicasa Realty (Pulpito 145-A; 52-322-222-6505), superb service for those who crave their own little piece of paradise; Over 15 years representing property buyers and sellers in Puerto Vallarta.

God and Toltec king Quetzalcoatl brought chocolate to the Aztec people. Xocodiva Artisan Chocolates (Rodolfo Gomez 111) will send you to heaven with divine hand-crafted confections. Lix by Xocodiva (168 Basilio Badillo) is their ice cream shop.


Safety warning

The beaches along Banderas Bay are warm and inviting, even at night. But being on the beach past sunset is not recommended, and be cautious with drug use or pickups. Accepting a solicitation for drugs or sex on the street could land you in a tight spot.


Ed Walsh In focus:

Cruising, Puerto Vallarta style
For 16 years now, Diana DeCoste has led gays and lesbians on tours of Puerto Vallarta's Banderas Bay. Her boat trips attract a mix of men and women, but the vast majority of the cruisers are gay men.
"I like to go to bed with women, but I can't make money off them," says DeCoste with her trademark cackling laugh that punctuates her tours.
Diana's Tours runs daylong catamaran excursions that depart every Thursday morning from Los Muertos Pier, two blocks north of the Blue Chairs Beach. Look for the boat flying the rainbow flag.
The first stop on the tour is usually Los Arcos, a local landmark just south of Puerto Vallarta. Los Arcos, which means "the arches" in Spanish, refers to three giant hollowed-out rock formations large enough for some small boats to navigate. (When you see arches used to symbolize Puerto Vallarta, they refer to these natural wonders.)
The swim-through rock formations rank as Puerto Vallarta's most popular snorkeling stop. Tropical fish, including angelfish and damselfish, dart in and out of the crevices, making for a colorful show. No need to bring your own snorkeling gear, as Diana's Tours takes care of that.
After Los Arcos, the tour makes another stop at a private beach complete with a walking trail and waterfall. That's followed by lunch at a restaurant onshore.
"Now that you are all here," DeCoste often says, as her guests take their seats, "please listen very closely to this 90-
minute time-share presentation."
She laughs, and everyone instantly gets the inside joke. Travelers are besieged by people selling time-share properties in Puerto Vallarta, starting when they arrive at the airport.
After the cruise, DeCoste invites all her guests to enjoy a drink and some male strippers at an after-party at the rooftop bar at Blue Chairs Resort by the Sea. The total charge for the day is $95 per person (2015-2016 season). Tickets, which may be bought online, tend to sell out 4-6 weeks in advance, so plan ahead. The last cruise this year: June 9, 2016.

If you're interested in whale watching, openly gay oceanographer Oscar Frey runs one of the most respected whale watching tours in Puerto Vallarta, Ocean Friendly Tours. While his clients are mostly straight, his tours are very gay-friendly. The four and a half to five and a half hour excursions cost $130-150 per person, including beverages, snacks and lunch. Whale watching season runs from December 1st through March 23rd.

Besides an on-board bar, snorkeling In Los Arcos Nature Reserve, lunch at a Las Animas beach restaurant, and a clothing-optional stop at Los Caballitos Beach, Wet & Wild 6-hour cruises feature sexy lotion boys, bartender hunks, and a "gays gone wild show" to wrap it up up. Departures are noon sharp Wednesdays and Saturdays in season, from Los Muertos Pier. Cost: $85 paid no later than one day before your cruise.


For more DXT articles, see:

Vallarta Pride - Apr 30, 2015

The Living is easy for LGBT travellers in PVR - Feb 12, 2015

Puerto Vallarta: Enjoy beaches and gay nightlife, but beware of the chupacabra - Jan 23, 2014

- staff - January 2016