Emergency measures in the wake of Covid-19:
March 23, 2020 Italy has banned all movement inside the country and closed all non-essential businesses after a weekend during which over 1,400 people died. Now at the center of the global crisis, Italy has exceeded China’s death toll, and more than 5,500 Italians test positive each day.
All businesses and factories not strictly necessary, crucial or indispensable will be closed until April 3rd. Supermarkets, banks, pharmacies and post offices will be permitted to stay open but police are checking documents and imposing fines on those outside without good reason.
Modern Rome offers incomparable food, rich art, historic sites, and stylish shopping. Subtler pleasures here include the sublime light which plays across ancient marbles, and sets to glowing the burnt sienna and ochre-colored walls at sundown. With a languid stretch on a fallen column, a feral cat among the ruins appears oblivious to it all. Thousands of years of civilizations are built literally one block upon the next, often using the recycled substance of a predecessor – an extraordinary complexity of landscape with odd and incongruous joints -- legacies of the many generations born or arrived at this sometimes chaotic, rare and worldly-wise crossroads. Do the postcard sights, but dare to get pleasantly lost to find those little treasures that delight the casual wanderer.
The "Eternal City" still captivates the world. Ancient legacies of language, law, architecture, religion, and philosophy include our Roman alphabet and calendar, and over 25 million Italians emigrated in recent centuries, many to North America. For their descendants, and anyone who grew up loving pizza, pasta, good coffee, and La Dolce Vita, the place seems already familiar on arrival. To wander here is to understand not only whence we came, but perhaps also where we're headed in our own era. Amidst vast ruins in the olive groves at Villa Adriana, it's hard today to imagine that Emperor Hadrian once administered the Roman Empire from this peaceful retreat, 20 miles from the capital. The most powerful man of his day, he travelled constantly thoughout his domain and built many things, including the eponymous British wall, and the Pantheon. Lover to Antinous, whose storied beauty is seen in many statues, he wasn't the only emperor who didn't closet his same-sex desires.
Gay travelers come to Rome for all these, but the best reason to come is the Romans. Balancing easy masculinity with gentle charm, these men will invite you to share the enchantments of their culture, millennia in the making.
Men here abound in contradictions, quite conservative in some ways, liberated in others. The Catholic Church is still influential, so gay sexuality might be expressed less openly in more traditionally Mediterranean ways than in other European capitals. But in terms of masculine affection, there are few inhibitions. An undercurrent of homoerotic desire seems barely but discreetly concealed. Friendships are close and effusively public, and welcomes bestowed on visitors can be enthusiastic and generous.
Considering the complex and conflicted relationship between the Church and pagan cultures on which Rome was founded, it's remarkable that the Vatican Museum, paradoxically, is now home to one of the world’s most amazing collections of nude male beauty. The complex includes the Museo Pio Clementino with 54 galleries, and Michelangelo’s masterpiece at the Sistine Chapel.
The Borghese Gallery, has works by Caravaggio, Bernini, Canova, Rubens, Raphael, Titian, and others from the Cardinal Scipione collection; and the Capitoline Museums collection ranges over ancient architecture and art, including statues.
Leonardo da Vinci-Fiumicino Airport will most likely be your gateway to Rome. Express trains to downtown run every 30 minutes, and take half an hour en route. Follow the signs from arrivals to the train station to buy your ticket, and be sure to validate it in the machine on the platform, just before boarding the train.
Bus coaches cost from 4-8 euros each way, depending on the company and special rate offers of the day. Walk right after exiting the arrivals point, look for buses parked there and buy the ticket from staff who compete for passengers at their bus door. Coming back look for the buses alongside Termini Station at the NW corner (the Via Marsala side) and enter the Terravision internet cafe to buy your ticket. Trips take from 45-60 minutes. Taxis also make the trip, but the cost is steep.
Trains from the airport and from cities around Europe and Italy arrive at the central Termini station. For information on rail services see the Ferrovie website. Ciampino, the other airport where Ryanair flights come in, is served by Metro rail and bus services.
Many of Rome's main attractions are concentrated in the historic center, so it’s easy to reach them by foot or a stop or two on the subway system or on the bus. Those outside the center can be reached via Metro Line A, often called the “tourist train.” After Metro operating hours there are night buses that follow street routes to connect the stations. A 1.50 euro ticket buys a trip on the Metro, or 70 minutes of bus travel with whatever changes you need. Unlimited downtown one to seven day tickets for Metro trains and buses can also be purchased - a 24 hour pass is 7 euros, and for seven days pay 24 euros. See the the ATAC website for more options, and all Rome public transit information.
Vespa motorbikes and bicycles can be rented too, for those adventurous and agile enough. EcoMove, and Bici & Baci are two of many options near Termini Station, and Berberini Scooters is near Piazza Barberini. Bikes for go for 10 euros/day and motorbikes for 40-80 euros/day -- with cheaper rates by the week.
Rome's gay scene is scattered all over the city, but most are within walking distance of the Colosseum or Termini station. Termini has long been a cruising area too - inside, outside, and in the restrooms. But beware of pickpockets, and those who might distract you as a silent partner disappears with your bag.
Just south of the Colosseum, Via di San Giovanni in Laterano has been designated “Gay Street” since 2007. In summer and for special events, the street closes to traffic for parties, music performances, and art displays. For summer events, June through September at Città dell'Altra Economia/ Lungotevere Testaccio, see GayVillage. Their old location at Parco del Ninfeo is now the site for Love Park, a new LGBT open-air summer festival.
Il Settimo Cielo (Seventh Heaven) is a popular gay beach off Via Litoranea, beside a pine forest on the Roman coast at Ostia. A mixed crowd gathers here for loud music and beach volleyball games, or to relax, using umbrellas and chaises that may be rented. Admission is free (unlike many private Italian beaches that charge), and a summertime catering service offers a rich buffet of rice, fruit or pasta salads and sides, during lazy late afternoons, along with cool drinks.
Media & resources
The Mario Mieli group website has local information and listings too.
ArciGay the Italian gay advocacy and service organziation, has a list of their member businesses.
For the Rome Tourist office website see Rome.info
InRomeNow is a great English-language source for off-the-beaten-track, very current tips on food & drink, arts & culture, nightlife & shopping in the city. They also have an iPhone/Pad app with more than 250 interesting side trip destinations, all within an hour or two from Rome.
For map locations and website links to the businesses below, and more, see our gay Rome listings pages.
Rome has many hotels. A cluster of very reasonably priced ones can be found in the vicinity of Termini Station. Off-season rates can be surprisingly inexpensive, but book ahead, especially in summer when demand exceeds supply.
2nd Floor (Via San Giovanni in Laterano, 10), nine modern apartment suites above Gay Street cafes and bars near the Colosseum, from 110 euros per single.
Altavilla (Via Principe Amedeo 9), classic palazzo with elegant rooms, between Termini station and the Coliseum; buffet-style Continental breakfast.
Ares Rooms (Via Domenichino 7), small gay-friendly hotel, great location, good rates; friendly, helpful staff; bright, modern rooms ten minutes walk from Termini, five minutes to gay bars, baths, near Colosseum and Forum, good restaurants, and shops.
B&B In And Out (via Arco del Monte 97), luxury guesthouse in distinctive 18th century mansion, close to the Campo dei Fiori and lively nightlife area.
B&B Orlando Innamorato (piazza de Re di Roma, via Mortara 2), gay-friendly guesthouse rooms, penthouse garden terrace, Italian and international breakfast, WiFi; Metro stop just 50 meters away.
Be First (via Principe Amedeo, 165), warm and welcoming 4-guestroom gay B&B near Termini Station, private baths, studio kitchenette, Italian breakfast, free WiFi.
Duca d'Alba (via Leonina 14), 4-star boutique hotel, 27 unique guestrooms, fully modern facilities, beautiful old building near Colosseum; breakfast buffet, WiFi, Concierge, guest laundry.
Scott House (via Gioberti 30), 4-star conveniences, 2-star prices near Termini station; private baths, air conditioning, satellite TV, breakfast, internet.
Youth Station Hostel (va Livorno 5), low rates near Piazza Bologna, shared dorm rooms for backpacker set, private bath, internet.
See another two dozen hotels and guesthouses at our Rome map and listings pages.
Looking for a country retreat? Relais Antiche Pietre, or Stone House Retreat (Contrado Bagno di Manziano 15, Parrano; 39-076-383-8084) is a gay-owned restored farm house with self-contained, fully-serviced apartments, and pool, in a peaceful rural Tuscan setting.
Food & Drink
Traditional Roman food was centered around inexpensive offal dishes, and of course spaghetti with garlic, olive oil, pecorino, carbonara, artichokes, clams and tomato sauce. Other pastas and thin crust pizzas with a wide variety of toppings are popular too. The Via Cavour and Termini areas have many good, basic and cheap trattorias and pizzerias, as do the Trastevere and Testaccio districts, and the student-frequented areas of San Lorenzo.
We list a sampling of local restaurants at our map and listings pages, and Italian friends will gladly steer you to some great options around the city. On first getting to town here are a few of the gayest gathering spots, mostly around Cavour and the Colosseum.
Caffè Letterario Roma (via Ostiense 95), gay-friendly bookshop cafe, art gallery, poetry readings, buffet meals, cocktails, free WiFi access.
Citta in Fiore (via Cavour 269), gay-friendly Chinese restaurant. Low prices and great Chinese and Italian food, wine and beer, always a warm welcome from owner Jada and staff, very popular with locals.
Coming Out (via di SanGiovanni in Laterano 8), bar and restaurant, right by the Colosseum, gay men and women, daily 11am to 2am meeting place for Rome's gay community, busiest weekend evenings; cocktail specials; good first stop in Rome with all local gay papers and information, WiFi access, sidewalk seating.
My Bar (via di SanGiovanni in Laterano 12), next to Coming Out, under 2nd Floor B&B by the Colosseum. Open from 8am daily with breakfast, panini, pastries, pizza and pasta, espresso coffees, full bar, sidewalk seating, free WiFi. Daytimes mixed, gay bar nights with dance floor in back.
Out on the town: Arcigay Cards
Arcigay, the national organization, works on behalf of gay people to change Italian society. Most bars, saunas, and some other gay businesses require membership, and many are associated with Arcigay. A card bought at one is valid nationwide. Check their website for member establishments.
Beige (via del Politeama 13), gay-friendly Trastevere district cocktail bar with Mediterranean buffet, evening music.
Coming Out (via di SanGiovanni in Laterano 8), mixed daytime cafe, evening gay bar/restaurant by the Colosseum, men and women. Favorite meeting place for Rome's gay community and visitors on Gay Street, sidewalk seating, busy weekends, cocktail specials. Good first stop with all the local gay papers and information, open daily 11-2am.
Company Roma (piazza Manfredo Fanti 40), basement music bar for bears and friends; smoking and dark rooms; Shirtless nights, Furry Fridays, and theme nights.
Freni e Frizioni (via del Politeama 4-6, Trastevere), mixed, gay-friendly cocktail lounge and cafe, imported beers, pastas/pizzas, salads, patio seating.
Garbo (vicolo di Santa Margherita 1A), drag and transsexual favored hangout bar, has art exhibits, books, and live music.
My Bar (via di SanGiovanni in Laterano 12), mixed daytime cafe from 8am breakfast, evening gay bar until 2am by the Colosseum, mostly men, shares crowd with Coming Out next door. Sidewalk seating, busy weekends, cocktail specials, small dance floor at the back, karaoke nights, occasional go-go dancers.
The Random (via scalo San Lorenzo 99a), gay-friendly restaurant/pizzeria, mixed disco dancing, piano bar and karaoke pub.
CLOSED: Hangar (via in Selci 69), among Rome's most enduring gay institutions. American expat John and partner Gianni's international gay men's gathering place with naked dancers and basement dark room shut the doors after more than 32 years.
Men's Cruise/ Sex Bars
For getting directly down to business, Rome boasts several man to man bars-cum-sex-clubs.
Bunker (via Placido Zurla 68), Thursday through Sunday men's cruise and dance club from 11:30pm, special parties, naked nights, smoking room, bear crowd. Note: website + FB both down. Porcelli Romani sexy men-only party, guest porn stars, go-go boys, cruise club/ dark room, maze, cabins, glory holes, sling, clothes check, and smoking area. No recent website updates.
Censured (via dei Quattro Cantoni 5), nightly men's cruise bar at city center; underwear, naked, and fetish nights.
K Sex Club (via Amato Amati 8), men's leather cruising and sex bar with shows, naked parties, open daily except Mondays.
Skyline Club (via Pontremoli 36), near San Giovanni metro, darkrooms, porn videos, high-energy music, naked parties, bears nights. Ask Gian Carlo for tourist advice.
See Leather Club Roma for year-round special events for leather fetish guys.
Europa Multiclub Sauna (via Aureliana 40), biggest, most popular and diverse Roman bathhouse. Amenities include mega-size Turkish bath, Finnish sauna, whirlpool, solarium; massage, internet, well-equipped gym, plus snacks and drinks at the cafe. Cabins for playing, plus big-screen erotic videos to set the mood. Open daily 1pm to midnight, and all weekend hours -- some stay here in place of a hotel room.
Two other longtime local tubs are just off Via Merulana as you walk south from the Termini area: Apollion Sauna (Via Mecanate 59/A) and Mediterraneo Sauna (Pasquale Villari 3). Each has steam, dry sauna, massage, darkrooms, and a loyal group of regulars.
Illumined Sauna (via Pontremoli 28), by EMC, has a bar, large Finnish sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi; private cabins, free WiFi and massage services, Saturday Night Sauna until 8am Sunday.
Terme di Roma Internazionale (via Persio 4), an old-style men's sauna out a bit from the center, open daily 11am-11pm with steam and dry saunas, maze and darkroom.
For dancing, Rome has an energetic line-up, with circuit parties popping up all over, but also some regular weekly venues. Most have one or two nights when they're gay, or busy. Many clubs and circuit parties take a break during summer months, returning in September or October for a new season until June. Party nights move around a lot, so double check venues ahead of time, before heading out to the clubs.
Amigdala at various venues; monthly Saturday queer electronic music parties with live concerts, film screenings, videos, visuals, and art.
COCKtail Sunday evening buffet dinners, cocktails & DJ disco parties with go-go boys - moves around the various clubs - check their website/facebook updates.
Frutta e Verdura (via di Santa Passera 27), October through May Sunday morning after-hour dance parties 4:30-11am for a gay/mixed crowd.
Gasometro (via del Porto Fluviale), mixed crowd performance arts space, dance, theatre, music, film; cafes and bars.
G I Am at Planet Roma (via del Commercio 36), popular Saturday gay dance nights at 6-room club with 3 dance floors, playing House, Commercial, remixes, RnB, and NuDisco; garden area, sexy shows and dancers, plus women-only area. See FB.
Monk Club (via Giuseppe Mirri 35), performance space, music, happenings, film screenings, theater, garden and cafe.
Muccassassina at Qube Club (via Portonaccio 212) or Alien (via Velletri 13), long-time gay/mixed Friday dance party on three levels, drag shows and other live performances, go-go boys, local and international DJs, men-only cruise area with dark room, maze, porn, and sex shows.
Short Theatre (piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4) alternative scene dance parties, theater, performances, art installations.
For Wednesday-Sunday summer events, June through September, see GayVillage (Città dell'Altra Economia/ Lungotevere Testaccio), with concerts, performances, discos, theater, free film screenings and other festival events, two dance floors (POP + EDM), 3 restaurants and food truck, 6 bars, and a games area.
The old GayVillage location, at Parco del Ninfeo, is now the site for Love Park, a new LGBT open-air summer festival of clubbing events, entertainment, food, and drinks - June through September.
See mainstream and mixed/gay-friendly events at: Alibi (via di Monte Testaccio, 40-44); Ex Dogana (viale dello Scalo S. Lorenzo 10); Giolitti Eur (viale Oceania 90); Lanificio159 (via di Pietralata 159); MACRO (piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4); MONK Roma (Giuseppe Mirri 35); Scalo Est (via dello Scalo San Lorenzo 10); and Short Theatre (piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4).
Just off Piazza Spagna at the base of the Spanish Steps (Metro: Spagna) by the Keats-Shelly Museum there are high-end shops that line Via dei Condotti. At the far end, Via del Corso runs from Piazza Venezia to Piazza del Popolo, with more well-known, but somewhat less expensive brand names above their doors. The Egyptian obelisk, that stands in Piazza del Popolo was brought to Rome in 10 BC by Emperor Augustus.
Many local sex and fetish shops stock gay merchandise, but a couple are of more interest than the others: Alcovo (Piazza Sforza Cesarini 27) and Hydra II (Via Urbana 139) both stock leather and fetish items, and the latter also carries Western, vinyl, and vintage wear.
See Millennia of Male Beauty below, from our archives.