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It won’t take you long to realize why locals refer to this as the Cidade Maravilhosa - the “Marvelous City.” The cultural capital of Brazil, Rio de Janeiro never fails to impress.

In a twist of history, Rio was once the capital of Brazil and Portugal. The Portuguese royal family and court of 15,000 escaped Napoleon's invasion of 1807 to arrive in Brazil, their colony since the year 1500. During the next thirteen years native-born Brazilians became accustomed to participation in government, and their ports were opened to foreign trade. When the king returned to Portugal in 1821, leaving his son Prince Regent Pedro to govern in his name, powerful interests in Lisbon pushed for Brazil to revert to its former status. Unwilling to submit, Brazilians persuaded Pedro to declare independence. In 1822 they crowned him Emperor Dom Pedro I of Brazil, in Rio, then fought a two year war to finally rid themselves of European rule.

Today Europeans and North Americans are among those who arrive for the beaches, the sunshine, the food, and the people. You won’t find lovelier stretches of sand anywhere. And the men on the sand — at Copacabana’s Bolsa Beach and Ipanema’s Farme de Amoedo (or “Farme Gay”) — are jaw-droppingly gorgeous. Both beaches are a great place to meet new friends or find out where the in-crowd is headed that evening.

Rio’s gay nightlife, centered in Ipanema and Copacabana, is another draw for foreign travelers. You’ll find every kind of music imaginable, but make sure you try one of the clubs where they dance the samba and bossa nova. The sight of so many hot men swaying to the tropical beat will surely be one of your best memories of Rio. For other perspectives on this society, see below: Bolsonaro's Brazil, along with links in our Media & Resources listings below.

 

Getting here

You’ll most likely fly into Aeroporto Internacional do Galeão, about 45 minutes northwest of the city. Aeroporto Santos Dumont, closer to the city, is where the Rio-São Paulo air shuttle touches down. Airport taxis, where you pay in advance, can be found at both of these gateways.

 

Getting around

Rio's Metro is an excellent subway and rapid transit system. Tourists can connect between Ipanema, Copacabana, Botafogo, Flamengo, Gloria, Central Station in downtown, and beyond, then hop a taxi for streets around stations. Buses are everywhere, but unless you’re a local you probably won’t figure them out before it’s time to board your homeward-bound flight. Taxis are easy to hail on the street, but for an air conditioned cab you might want to have your hotel call one for you. They're more expensive, but worth it on the hottest days.

 

Neighborhoods

Ipanema and Copacabana are still the center of Rio de Janeiro’s gay nightlife. People's nights usually begin at friends' houses, in cocktail lounges, or over dinner around 9pm, before they hit the dance clubs after midnight.  Though Ipanema has no big dance clubs, there are plenty of small and chic ones here. Rua Farme de Amoedo, Joana Angélica and Teixeira de Melo, all in Ipanema, are easy to walk and full of cafés, restaurants, and bars, popular with gay locals. Bars and clubs in Copa are more spread out, so getting around from place to place is more easily done in a taxi.

Baixo Leblon, a center for the counterculture 30 years ago, has streets such as Dias Ferreira and avenues Ataulfo de Paiva and General San Martin with popular bars, restaurants/cafes, and clubs offering live music and dancing. Watch out for Rio's circuit parties too. They might be anywhere, from the beach to an old industrial building or on a farm outside the city, but most take place in the downtown district.

Too hot to walk the streets? Shopping Leblon, a large climate-controlled mall, has over 200 shops, plus restaurants, cinemas, and Teatro do Leblon stage productions. More malls, out by the airport in Barra da Tijuca, include BarraShopping/ NYC Center, and the Village Mall with stores from Apple and Amani to Vuitton and Versace, plus restaurants, cinemas and a theater.

 

What to do

Rio’s Carnival happens each year, 40 days before Easter. Here and across Brazil, normal business is suspended for a week. It all began in Rio, in 1641, following the style of European balls and masquerade parties. Over time locals adapted and creolized the pageant with elements of native and African cultures, and it grew to become one of the biggest street parties in the world. Each year revelers attempt to outdo the lavish excesses of the year before; costumes and floats are a year in preparation. Neighborhood Blocos, much like the Krewes of New Orleans, include percussion or music groups, with amusing themes and elaborate parades - in a small area, or through the streets of Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, Lagoa, Jardim Botânico, downtown Rio, and elsewhere. Events might begin as early as January, and gay people are fully integrated into the affair from exotic drag to buff bodies. Besides all the outdoor celebrations, there's plenty going on at the clubs too.

Parada do Ogulho, The Gay Pride Parade along Copacabana Beach, followed by parties all night long, is scheduled for late September 2020. On New Years Eve at Copacabana Beach, there's a huge annual beach party with drag queens and fireworks, along with crowds that fill the streets and nightclubs all over town.
 

 

Currency and Money

The Brazilian real (meaning “royal”) is the local currency. The coins are divided into the same denominations as most currencies, so getting to know the local money is easy. Online websites like XE provide exchange rates that are close to what credit or debit cards scales will be. Plastic is widely accepted, so you won't need to risk carrying a lot of cash. As always when going abroad, inform your bank of travel plans (avoid anti-theft protocols), find out if they have local partner banks (save on ATM charges), and get phone numbers - other than 800 codes that won't work outside the US - just in case.

 

Media & resources

Rio Gay Life is a useful LGBTQ news and listings site, but only in Portuguese. Rio Gay Guide is in English and other languages, but it's a bit outdated. Netgay website covers all of Brazil, with blogs, video clips, sauna, massage and erotic listings/ webcam links.

Vamos has an English-language guide to gay Rio and São Paulo, along with other cities in South America and Mexico.

Projeto Dois Terços LGBTQ social/political activist group promotes social campaigns, and volunteer work, sponsoring interviews, debates and meetings concerning issues of homosexuality in Brazilian society today.

TripAdvisor has a good online guide to vacations in Rio, and Rio-Carnival has info about the big annual event. 

Gringo-Rio.com is the English language guide and blog of a straight expat of 12 years in Rio, with advice on many things; from hotels and apartments to restaurant tips, sights, museums, sports, travel, language, and festivals.

Veja Rio, a good source of information on what's going on in town, also has listings of almost every restaurant in the city. The Rio Times, a locally published English language newspaper, will keep you up to date with news and local listings.

The mainline papers O Globo and Jornal do Brasil have entertainment supplements with a gay section. All are in Portuguese, so if you "não falar a lingua," use google translate, or break the ice with a local by asking.

Event flyers are left in gay-frequented places, handed out in the streets, and on the beach.

For map locations and website links to the businesses below, and more, see our gay Rio listings pages.

 

Going out
Most gay-frequented clubs and cafes are mixed, so for men-only venues it's a sauna or sex club you're looking for, and there are plenty of those. Some clubs have dark rooms, but if you duck inside to play, make sure your wallet stays in a safe place. Lock up the passport at the hotel - a photocopy with you will do for ID. When bar hopping after dark, it's best to take a taxi. Most dance clubs and circuit parties go late into the wee hours, and there's after-hours dancing to keep folks busy until past sunrise. See our city map for additional listings and web links.

Bar TV (Av. Nossa Senhora de Copacabana, 1417), Copacabana entertainment complex/bar, Thursday-Sunday music, shows, parties, Video/TV, classic oldies, new and cult, mixed dance crowd; Thursday and Friday Hole clothing-optional sex party, live shows, dark room.

Boite 1140 (Rua Capitao Menezes, 1140, Placa Seca/Jacarepagua) long-time Rio favorite gay nightclub, 3 areas to choose from, patio, big crowd, elaborate drag performances.

Buraco da Lacraia (Rua Andre Cavalcanti, 58, Lapa), aka Star Club, Friday/Saturday nights, very cruisy dark room, wacky drag shows, karaoke, mostly young, friendly locals, eclectic crowd -not the ritzy Zona Sul types.

Casa de Matriz (Rua Henrique de Novais 107, Botofogo), house-cum-nightclub, dancing, games, movies, alternative party people escaping the standard club scene.

Fosfobox (Rua Siqueira Campos, 140-22a/down, Copa) small basement club in shopping center, fashionable/ mixed crowd, dancing to alternative, funk, indy, techno music; women's nights.

Galeria Cafe (Rua Teixeira de Mello, 31/E-F, Ipanema), tiny busy very chic Wednesday-Saturday dance bar and lounge, good-looking crowd.

La Cueva (Rua Miguel Lemos, 51/down, Copa) popular with bears and older guys (and those seeking them) on weekends; younger crowd weekdays, Tuesday nights in particular, with popular DJs.

Lapa 40º (Rua Riachuelo, 97, Lapa), Samba/Techno gay/mixed club/lounge on 4 floors of bars, with 20 pool tables and two show stages of live music and vocal performers.

Maxim's (Av. Atlantica, 1850, Copa), seafood restaurant, Brazilian and International menu, steaks, pizza and burgers; long-popular transvestite bar.

Papa G (Travessa Almerinda Freitas, 42, Madureira), off-beaten-track locals' dance and show bar, Wednesday through Sunday divas, theme parties, go-go boys and girls, men and women mix.

Pipper (Av Passos, 36, Centro), cocktails and dance club behind Espaço Franklin, downtown; trendy young guys/ girls, gay/ straight, black/ white crowd; resident DJs, go-go boys.

Tô Nem Aí (Rua Farme de Amoedo 57, Ipanema), Caipirinhas (the national cocktail) and draft beer, snacks and light fare, just off the beach, mixed crowd, patio tables on lively street.

Turma OK (Rua dos Inválidos, 39, downtown), drag shows, amateurs and pros, pageants, Mr OK hot older guy contests.

Up Lounge (Avenida das Américas 2000, Barra da Tijuca), Freeway Center weekday lunchtime restaurant, Saturday 11pm-5am gay/ mixed dance party club, male strippers, drag shows.

The Week (Rua Sacadura Cabral, 135, Saúde), dance club of the moment in Rio and Sao Paulo; top DJs, shows, many go-go boys; gayest on Saturdays and packed with circuit party people, higher cover charge for women.

CLOSED: Cine Ideal (Carioca, 64, downtown), electronic music danceclub; Dama de Ferro (Moraes, 288, Ipanema), late night club/lounge/gallery; Expresso Carioca (Amoedo, 76), Ipanema gay bar; Le Boy (Pompeia, 102, Copa), dancing, drag, erotic naked strippers, rent boys; Le Girl (Pompeia, 102, Copa), women's dance club; Lounge 69 (Moraes, 416, Ipanema); Zero Zero (Franca, 240), day restaurant/ nightclub.

 

Saunas
Among the many gay saunas in Rio, most are busiest 6-10pm, and close by midnight, but a few stay open later. None requires membership. Pay the entry fee, massage charges, and bar tab as you leave. Many have a social club atmosphere, and men often come just for drinks, to play cards, to relax and chat. For those wanting sensual diversions, most places have private cabins, and many have self-employed guys who romp for pay and require cash up front. Prostitution is legal here. Look for "sem boys" in sauna ads if you want to avoid them. Masseurs are house-employed, offering deep muscle therapeutic relief. Bring your own lube and condoms, but flip-flops and towels are provided.

AX 11.9 Sauna (Rua Paulo Barreto, 119, Botafogo), dry sauna, steam room, porn video theater, dark room, cabins, massage service, internet access, bears' nights.

Club 117 (Rua Candido Mendes, 117, Glória), dry and steam saunas, erotic videos, dark room, hotel-style rooms, bar, bath robes; massage, "sensual" shows, go-go boys and friendly, sexy escorts in red towels who vie for your favors. Open 3pm-1am.

Copacabana Sauna (Rua Dias da Rocha, 83, Copa), cabins, dry and steam saunas, swimming pool, beauty spa, dark room, masseurs.

Espaco 165 (Av Bruxelas 165, Bonsucesso), sauna/steam for men on 3 levels, cabins and suites, bar, massage, video lounge.

Kabalk Sauna (Rua Santa Luiza, 459 - Maracanã), cabins, dry and steam saunas, beauty salon, dark room, masseurs, no rent boys; daily 3pm-midnight.

Lion's Club Rio (Rua Joaquim Silva, 4, Glória), large steam/sauna, dance club, lounge and bar; male strippers, drag shows, food.

Point 202 (Rua Siqueira Campos, 202, Copa), bar/ sauna, drag shoes, naked male strippers, TV/video lounge, rent boys/escorts.

Rio G Spa (Rua Teixeira de Mello, 16, Ipanema), all-modern steam and dry saunas, spa facilities, therapeutic massage, facials, dark room, cabins, cinema, internet, bar.

Termas Catete (Rua Correa Dutra, 34, Centro), men's steam/sauna, cruising, mixed age/types, no rent boys.

See the Netgay website for more saunas, plus massage and other services.

CLOSED: Club 29 (Rua Prof. Alfredo Gomes, 29, Botafogo), cabins, saunas, masseurs, cyber cafe; Le Boy Fitness (Pompeia, 102, Copa), cabins, saunas, dark room, erotic strippers; New Meio Mundo (Rua Theophilo Otoni, 18; Centro), steam/sauna, cruising, cafe/bar, rent boys, strip shows; Termas Leblon (Barao da Torre, 522, Ipanema), cabins, sauna/ steam, dark room, masseurs.

 

Sex clubs and...

Cine Rex (Rua Alvaro Alvim, 33-37), classic 1934 movie palace in Cinelândia, now showing straight porn movies, with gay cruising and sex in the seats.

Club Mix Bar (Rua do Mercado, 25), Sunday night Macho Man bears' fetish/sex night darkroom, maze, cabins, glory holes, sex lounges, terrace, smoking area. Also Desejo Transex nights, plus heterosex naked/ underwear and orgy nights.

Festa Do Vale Tudo at Club 74 (Rua da Quitanda, 74), twice-monthly 3-10pm Sunday 18+ sex parties for men, naked jock or underwear sex orgy, male strippers and live erotic shows with audience participation, bar. Annual Orgy at Sea boat excursion each February.

Seven Cruising Bar (Praça da República, 141), daytime men's cruise bar, play areas, cabins, glory holes, nude male strippers/ live sex shows, naked parties, leather/fetish events.

 

Lodgings

Arpoador Inn Hotel (Rua Francisco Otaviano, 177, Ipanema), ocean-view rooms, walk to beach, Ipanema, Leblon and Copacabana shops, bars and restaurants; AC, premium TV, full breakfast, WiFi, concierge, gym access.

Casa Cool Beans B&B (Rua Laurinda Santos Lôbo, 136, Santa Tereza), gay-owned 8-room guesthouse, pool, sun deck, patio, lounge, concierge, WiFi.

Contemporâneo Hostel (Rua Bambina, 158, Botafogo), design hostel shared dorm room bunk beds, mixed, female-only or male-only with lockers, plus six private suites; breakfast, common kitchen, computers, WiFi, bar and art exhibits.

Copacabana Palace (Av. Atlântica, 1702, Copacabana), glamorous art-deco landmark, luxury rooms and suites, penthouse, pool, day spa services, massage; Mee Michelin star pan-Asian and Cipriana Northern Italian fine dining featuring a chef's table; piano bar plus Pérgula poolside Brazilian/ international cuisine, daily buffet and Sunday brunch.

El Misti Hostels (Rua Joana Angélica, 47, Ipanema + 4 Copacabana locations), five hostels and suites, inexpensive dorm beds to private rooms and suites, breakfast buffet, bar, young international set.

Golden Tulip Ipanema Plaza | Restaurante Opium (Rua Farme de Amoedo, 34, Ipanema Beach), 140 rooms and suites, deluxe balcony ocean views, Asian cuisine restaurant and bar, rooftop pool, terrace, sauna and fitness facilities.

Hotel Atlântico Copacabana (Rua Siqueira Campos, 90, Copacabana), rooms, suites and apartments, cable TV, rooftop pool, sauna, fitness center, Brazilian/International restaurant, pool and lobby bars.

Hotel Fasano Rio de Janeiro | Fasano Al Mare (Av. Vieira Souto, 80, Ipanema), modern luxury suites and services, rooftop infinity pool, spa and fitness facilities, exclusive beach stand, concierge-arranged activities, surfboards and bike rentals, 17 restaurants, cafes and bars.

Ibis Rio de Janeiro Centro (Rua Silva Jardim 32, Centro), economy hotel, 200 modern ensuite rooms in historic/ cultural center, international TV channels, Ibis Kitchen lunch and dinner, bar, WiFi.

Ipanema Inn (Rua Maria Quitéria, 27, Ipanema), modern rooms and suites near beach, bars, shops and restaurants; breakfast, beach services, concierge, gym access.

Janeiro Hotel (Av. Delfim Moreira, 696, Praia do Leblon), boutique hotel, 42 new and roomy suites, ocean views, pool, sauna, WiFi, cable TV, restaurant and bar.

L'Homme de Rio (Rua Saint Roman, 222, Copacabana), men-only guesthouse, five Carioca suites, private terraces, four Sugarloaf colonial mansion deluxe suites, in-room spa services, bar, WiFi, laundry, airport transfers, pool, panoramic views.

La Maison by Dussol (Rua Sérgio Pôrto, 58, Gavea), retro-Bohemian-style luxury boutique hotel in quiet green neighborhood; 5 unique rooms, pool, terrace views.

Mama Ruisa (Rua Santa Cristina, 132, Santa Teresa), exotic Brazilian-French hillside guesthouse, swimming pool, breakfast, gardens, art, cable TV; á la carte services, sailing and chauffeured excursions.

Mar Ipanema Hotel (Rua Visconde de Pirajá, 539, Ipanema), 86 guest rooms, indoor and outdoor rooftop bar and lounge, breakfast, beach services, sauna and fitness center.

O Veleiro Bed & Breakfast (Rua Mundo Novo, 1440, Botafogo), 3 rooms and Master Suite in heritage-style home on forested hillside above Botafogo, large tropical gardens, terrace, plunge pool, full breakfast; tours and excursions.

Pestana Rio Atlantica Hotel (Av. Atlantica 2964, Copacabana), moderately-priced rooms and suites, ocean views, pool and Jacuzzi, fitness and business centers, hot breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets, pool deck and lobby bars.

Praia Ipanema Hotel (Av. Vieira Souto, 706, Ipanema), rooms/suites with ocean views, cable TV, pool with bar, rooftop Espaço 7zero6 Restaurant breakfast, lunch, tea, dinner, wine and cocktails; also Capim Dourado Brazilian Restaurant.

Rio Design Hotel (Rua Francisco Sá, 17, Copacabana), 66 rooms and suites, 24-hr service, rooftop pool, deck, restaurant and bar, lobby bar with computers.

Sofitel Rio De Janeiro Ipanema (Av. Vieira Souto, 460, Ipanema), 223 rooms and suites, cable TV, beachfront ocean views, rooftop pool and bar, gym, sauna, Galani international restaurant.

Sol Ipanema Hotel (Av. Vieira Souto, 320, Ipanema), modern rooms with beach views, cable TV, WiFi, rooftop pool, Italian/ Mediterranean restaurant, lobby and pool bars, 24h services.

South American Copacabana (Rua Francisco Sá, 90, Copacabana), 95 modern, luxury rooms, 4 executive suites, breakfast buffet, international restaurant, cable TV, WiFi.

Mister B&B also has listings gay rooms and rentals in Rio, most of them located near the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema.

 

Bolsonaro's Brazil?

Visitors are realizing that Brazilians, especially the residents of this city, live in an increasingly authoritarian and polarized society in which police of this state kill people at a rate 20 times greater than in the USA. Jair Bolsonaro, the new president, is offering police forces and vigilantes even freer rein in targeting their victims, saying "a good criminal is a dead criminal," and "I am in favor of torture." "Proud to be homophobic," he'd "rather his son die in a car accident than be gay." He looks fondly back to the era of military dictatorship, and would imprison or exile political opponents, exploit resources in the Amazon, and end protections for indigenous reservations. He also compares Afro-Brazilians to cattle, and has called having a female child a weakness.

But boycotting the country may not be the best response. The Matador Network quotes people in the The Nature Conservancy who believe that indigenous communities, under threat from developers, need viable alternatives provided by eco-tourist cash for support that could be more useful than boycotts.

How gay-friendly is Brazil? A Washington Blade article examines claims by Embratur/ Visit Brazil, the country’s tourism board; and organizers of the take-back-the-beach Bota a Cara no Sol LGBTI event in February 2019 challenge claims of pink-dollar Florianópolis tourism promotions, exemplified by this New York Times article of ten years ago. See more links in our Media & Resources listings above.

Article of interest:

Rio Carnival takes a stand against Bolsonaro's divisive rhetoric - by Ana Ionova: The Guardian, Feb 21, 2020.

 

Rio, by Michael Luongo

To my mind there is no more beautifully situated city in the world than Rio de Janeiro. A beachside metropolis, my favourite kind of urban destination, it spreads up from the Atlantic Ocean into the dramatic mountains behind it. Many are oddly rounded in shape, like Sugarloaf (which takes its name from a time when sugar was shaped in cones) and Corcovado (“hunchback” in Portuguese), graced for more than 80 years by the outstretched arms of Christ the Redeemer, who blesses the city and her residents no matter what sins they get up to.

Rio dates back to the 1500s and was once the capital of Brazil, before the central government was moved in the middle of the last century to Brasília, in the wilds at the heart of the country. Still, even the designers of the new capital so loved Rio they refused to live in Brasília. The most famous architect of the new capital, Oscar Niemeyer, lived in a curvaceous ocean-view high rise on Avenida Atlantica. Niemeyer, 105 years old when he died in December 2012, was the perfect example of what locals call a Carioca de Gema, or native of Rio “down to the yolk.” Such people refuse to leave Rio, and once you visit this seductive city with its mix of danger, sensuality and beauty, you’ll understand.

My first visit to Rio was in 2000, and I landed in the middle of Carnival. I was travelling with my friend Jim Green, a professor at Brown University and the author of the book Beyond Carnival, about Brazil’s gay history. I could not have had a better person as a guide. We spent time in Copacabana, where the gay beach, marked by its own rainbow flag, sprawls from the famous Copacabana Palace hotel. We delighted in watching famous Brazilian pornstars order drinks from the gay kiosk on Avenida Atlantica, with its black and white swirled walkways.

The other gay beach is in Ipanema, a more upscale, less crowded part of the city where we watched well-toned men (often called Barbies for their beautiful, though distinctly male, physiques) play volleyball where the sands meet the Rua Farme de Amoedo, considered the main gay drag. I partied at the Banda de Ipanema street festival while getting rained on, surrounded by hundreds of Speedo-clad men whose feathery head-dresses wilted to the pavement.

Farther from the centre of Rio is the beach at Leblon, and during Carnival it’s home to the Gay Ball at the social club Scala, which for me was the highlight. I danced with a hunky Argentine tourist, a transgender beauty and a ball-gowned woman old enough to be my grandmother. All this special gay fun was in addition to the normal goings-on during Carnival, including the Sambadromo, where the parades of samba schools competing for the best themes and costumes all take place.

Carnival, which takes place just before Lent, is the party that put Rio on the map, but there are other great times to visit the city. One of the world’s biggest New Year’s celebrations is Réveillon, when millions of Cariocas dress in white and head to the beach, throwing flowers into the Atlantic Ocean as offerings to Yemanja, the goddess of the sea, celebrated in the Penelope Cruz movie Woman on Top. We all know what happens when white clothes hit water, so after the flowers are thrown, people find other ways to ring in the new year.

Any event will have a gay dimension in Rio, but if you want to visit during Pride itself, head to Rio in October, just as summer is beginning. This year’s Pride had nearly a million participants. Clovis Casimiro, the commercial director of the gay tourism promotion group ABRAT GLS, says that during Pride or any time, “Rio is so fun because of the local people and the combination of nature and metropolis --and also because Rio means the Brazilian way of life -- relaxed, happy, colourful, with music and great hosts!”

Casimiro reminds us that while beaches made Rio famous, the city is so much more than just that. Within the old downtown, you’ll find fantastic colonial churches, like São Bento, with its interior awash in gold, or the space-capsule-shaped Catedral Metropolitana. I love the old plazas here in the center, often devoid of tourists, who stick to the beaches. The downtown is full of imposing early-20th-century classical structures, along with mid-century moderns built under dictatorships, which seem almost Pharaonic in scale. No gay person worth his or her salt will want to miss the neighbourhood of Flamengo, with its Carmen Miranda Museum. Gay artist Ulisses Rabelo sculpted many of the mannequins that hold the brilliant clothes this Brazilian star wore in numerous Hollywood musicals of the 1940s.

Overlooking Rio is the hillside neighbourhood of Santa Teresa, which has undergone a revival and is full of artists and galleries. At the bottom of the hills, below Santa Teresa, is a famous aqueduct, the Arcos da Lapa, in the area known as Lapa. This neighbourhood, now full of clubs and music bars, is a little seedy and was once the haunt of the legendary Madame Satã, whose real name was João Francisco dos Santos, an infamous gang member and drag performer in the 1920s and 1930s. Madame Satã is just one example of Rio’s gay history and her always-lurking dangers. The city has dramatically improved in the past decade in both cleanliness and safety, as all of Brazil’s economy has uplifted and with the city preparing for the Olympics.

Still, night is a time to be cautious. I was once attacked by young kids with knives in Copacabana. In the end, I was relatively unharmed, just a little shaken, but I was left with one of my favourite Rio stories. I flagged down the police, explaining to them what had happened, but we could not find the suspects when we did a drive-around. The police asked me where I was heading, which was to a new gay bar (since closed.) The policemen did not know of it but said they would instead take me to Le Boy, Rio’s best-known gay club (also now closed). They turned on the sirens and the flashing lights and sped me through the streets. In front of Le Boy, I hugged and kissed the policemen goodbye and stepped out of the patrol car into the club, skipping the long line, with everyone thinking I was a celebrity or a gay cop. There is no city in the world quite like Rio.